Constant Optimist: Anker says inspiring and educating kids is the best hope for the planet. Photo: Courtesy of The North Face
In 2008, mountaineering studs Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk were within 100 meters of the top of the Shark’s Fin of Meru Central (6,310 meters) in the Indian Himalaya when they turned back. The unclimbed route had beaten them—and they didn’t feel the least bit bad about their decision to go home. But soon they were planning a return in 2011, until Ozturk suffered a serious head injury skiing at Jackson, Wyoming, five months before the expedition was to start. But when Anker visited him in the hospital, Ozturk insisted they do the climb. And in October, the three friends and The North Face athletes became the first to conquer the Shark’s Fin. We caught up with Anker just after his return and he talked about how the three managed to summit one of the most difficult climbs on the planet and his hopes for the future.
I saw the video of you guys at the top of Meru and you seemed really emotional. Why was this mountain so important to you?
I was in tears. I had put three expeditions, eight years and a lot of skin in this game. It goes back to my mentor Muggs Stump, who had tried to climb Meru and couldn’t. We were so close in 2008, we probably could have done it but we had been up there 19 days—we didn’t have any reserves. There had been over 25 unsuccesful attempts on Meru. It had become this lodestone, which made it more difficult. The mystique hanging on it became pretty significant.
Is there going to be a letdown?
Life is a linear experience. I don’t circle back. Today is the best day of my life and tomorrow will the best day of my life. I’m psyched. I’ll be 49. I finally pulled this off. But it’s not necessarily all a young guy’s game. It’s more about experience and judgment and long-term endurance.
Renan filmed the climb and Jimmy shot photos. Do you have a media role?
Those guys are so awesome with media. I’m kind of like a mole, a sightless rodent that lives in the ground and blunders to digital technology. I’m so thankful for how they documented the trip. But if I did it I would have had five shots of their butts.
What are you doing for recreational fun now that you are back home?
I have been ice climbing in the Hyalites. It’s a powerful place where you can see geological time in the remnant of the Yellowstone super volcano and sort of feel how inconsequential we are in the universe. I’m keen on new routes up there. Whether it’s my ego or a stab at immortality I don’t know. I like to set more difficult routes.
What young climbers inspire you?
Alex Honnold. The guy is climbing everything without a rope. I have been at it a long time and I’m a mediocre climber and I haven’t been snuffed but what Alex has done to increase the sport is simply amazing. We are pretty close and we like to climb El Cap together.
And in general? Do you have hope for the planet, for the future?
I’m totally optimistic. You wouldn’t get up a mountain if you weren’t an optimist. It’s all about innovation. Our downfall as a nation though is that we are not investing in education. We are facing a challenge of obesity. We need to provide aspiration. You and I grew up with the Apollo program. We don’t have anything like that for kids to aspire to anymore. People always ask, “What is the relevance of climbing? Is it just some selfish pursuit?” But if we can get four or five fifth graders to get motivated, to change their perception of the world, then we can have an impact. That’s why I don’t do corporate speaking gigs anymore. They have their BMWs, they’re sitting there drinking. I mean, I get a stack of cash, but it’s just not me. But fourth and fifth graders. You go in there and tell them we are facing this great challenge and they write letters back to you telling how they are making simple steps to change the world like reusing aluminum foil. And I think, yes, I’m making an impact. We need these aspirational things.
