The second annual Clif Bar Psicobloc Master Series held in Park City, Utah on August 9 featured elite climbers from across the country contending for a share of the $31,000 cash payout, possibly the largest purse in any climbing competition. The evening was nothing short of jaw dropping as first-time competitor Sean McColl and 16-year-old Claire Buhrfeind became this year’s champions.
Organized by legendary climber Chris Sharma, Psicobloc (Spanish for “crazy bouldering”) is America’s first-ever deep water soloing competition. While most climbing comps are based on point systems, the Psicobloc Master Series is more similar to a duel. Climbers race head-to-head on identical routes, with the highest or first to the top advancing to the next round.
“This is by far the best competition in America to watch. The crowd can relate to it because it’s not about numbers, it’s about people launching up on a 55-foot wall with only water beneath them, no rope,” said Chris Weidner, who co-hosted Louder Than Eleven’s live stream alongside Brian Runnells.
The competition wall, designed by Walltopia sits 55-feet above the Utah Olympic Park freestyle aerial training pool. The women’s route was 5.13a and the men’s was 5.13d. Route setters included Spain’s deep water solo master Miguel Riera, Spanish sport climber Dani Andrada and Utah’s Steven Jeffrey.
“The competition is unlike anything else,” said Meagan Martin, who went up against her roommate Alex Puccio in the first heat. “It’s definitely something climbing needs in the future because it’s the only way to grow the sport. I hope it becomes more than a once-a-year thing.”
The women’s comp shook everything up as five of the 16 female finalists hailed from Texas, including Buhrfeind, who turned out to be this year’s dark horse. In fact, she was not invited to the competition and had never climbed on the wall prior to the qualifiers, but she took it down with confidence.
“She’s going to be the most popular girl at her high school,” said announcer Jonathan Thesenga.
The crowd was estimated at over 5,000 spectators at the event and over 50,000 viewers watching the live stream and the event re-broadcast at home.
“This has been my dream for the last ten years,” said Chris Sharma following the podium ceremony. “Thanks to everyone who helped us realize this dream to take climbing to the next level. It feels really special to be here.”
Here’s a photo roundup of the night.
Jimmy Webb, Kai Lightner and Paul Robinson signing posters in the Prana tent pre-comp.
13-year-old Ashima Shiraishi sticking the dyno in round one
Ashima Shiraishi and Sasha Digiulian enjoying the poolside hot tub
Texans Claire Buhrfeind and Delaney Miller simul-jump from the 50-foot wall after the women’s finals
Aerial skiers during the half time show
Josh Larson and Matty Hong simul-jump from the 50-foot wall after round one
Carlo Traversi wins round one
Sean McColl tops out after winning the 2014 Psicobloc Masters Series
Sean McColl and Daniel Woods on the podium
—Sidni Giordano
