Endless Winter: In Colorado’s high peaks you can always combine a backpacking trip with a corn snow descent. Photo: Liam Doran/liamdoranphotography.com
Colorado’s mountains are a diverse collection of distinct relatives. Every major range has a unique geological history that gives the peaks their own unique character. With those differences in mind, we decided to highlight hikes in three of the state’s most distinct regions. Each offers a different array of rock, wildlife, contours and challenges. Aspen’s location at the crossroads of the glaciated Sawatch Range and the crumbly, uplifted sea floor of the Elk Range makes it the ideal spot to get up into hybrid alpine settings. Salida offers access to the state’s highest peaks (get ready to tick numerous 14ers off your life list) in the high Sawatch Range and Steamboat Springs offers the northern reaches of the Park Range, an area rich with streams, flowers and lower elevation (but no less spectacular) summits.
ASPEN
Many of the postcard-perfect peaks acknowledged as Colorado’s most aesthetically pleasing scrape the sky just outside of Aspen—think Sopris, Castle, Pyramid. And the Elk Range is highlighted by the massive 14,000-foot Maroon Bells, striated peaks whose trademark diagonal channels are due to the soft, uplifted rock and clay from a long-lost Colorado sea.
HIKE
GEISSLER PEAK
Even if you don’t have your sights set on a summit, a day hike to the Geissler Peak area is a worthy adventure. Starting from the 11,535-foot Lost Man Pass Trailhead 1.9 miles west from the summit of Independence Pass (on the Aspen side), the Lost Man Pass trail follows high alpine streams to the rocky, scenic shores of Independence Lake. Just past the lake at 2.1 miles at 12,800 feet, you’ll reach the saddle of Lost Man Pass. After taking in the Martian-like scenery, go off trail on a moderate Class 2 ridge to reach 13,301-foot Geissler Peak. Continue along the ridge to complete a full 6.1 mile loop that tags several sub-peaks and returns by intersecting the Linkins Lakes trail.
SCRAMBLE
BECKWITH MOUNTAIN
In deep forests saturated with colonies of aspen trees lay the Beckwith Mountains, a collection of modest summits along a single, glacially carved massif. Punctuated by the highpoint of 12,432-foot East Beckwith Mountain, the off-trail scrambling offers excellent Class 3 ridge lines. Unlike the unstable terrain of many of the Elk Range peaks, the rock here is solid and sturdy. Adventurous scramblers can traverse to the west summit a mile from the east or complete a full tour of the entire Beckwith proper by circling the ridges, for roughly a six mile day.
OVERNIGHT
WEST MAROON PASS
Don’t let the crowds swarming the easily accessed Maroon Lake at the foot of the Maroon Bells deter you from exploring the backcountry in Aspen’s backyard. You’ll quickly lose the masses as you head out to West Maroon Pass, 6.5 miles from the lake. From here you’ll have amazing views of Belleview Mountain and Mount Belleview and just over the pass is primo backcountry camping. Surprisingly lush alpine meadows, quiet streams and red rock mountains set an impressive stage. With two vehicles, you can continue four miles to Scofield Pass and a trailhead that will bring you to Crested Butte, or simply return, soaking in the marvelous mountain scenery along the way.
SALIDA
Salida’s location in the high peaks region of Colorado makes it a fantastic base for adventures in the Sawatch Range. Boasting 15 peaks over 14,000 feet, the Sawatch Range is best known for it’s hulking, domed, rocky mountains that offer up long, gradual ascents to reach their lofty summits. It is the runoff from these peaks that givesSalida proximity to several great sections of river, something to keep in mind if you’re eager to mix in some paddling. The mountain biking is pretty sweet too—but you won’t find hikes like this at eleveation anywhere else.
HIKE
MOUNT OURAY
Mount Ouray threatens to be a 14er but falls just short at 13,971 feet, which, in our humble opinion, is great news. Since the peak doesn’t have the famed pedigree, you can take in all the stunning Sawatch views without worrying the crowds of 14er toppers. As a bonus, the ridge to Ouray’s summit is an easy to navigate, off-trail, Class 2 path that offers true wilderness feel. The 6.1 mile round trip from the top of Marshall Pass starts on the Colorado Trail for one mile before diverging off to follow Ouray’s West Ridge. Thankfully, the ridge up to Ouray’s summit is solid and features a unique section of silvery veined white quartz.
SCRAMBLE
CARBONATE MOUNTAIN LOOPS
Topping out at 13,653 feet, Carbonate Mountain used to have a smattering of visitors when the Jennings Creek Route to the popular 14,155-foot Tabeguache Peak was the standard path. Since Jennings Creek was closed in 2003, hikers shifted trailheads in their efforts to reach Tabeguache, leaving Carbonate as hidden Sawatch gem. A mere half mile farther west up County Road 240 past Jennings Creek is the perfectly legal Cyclone Creek and this is where the fun begins. A burly 1.9-mile off-trail-trek up Carbonate’s south ridge brings you to the amazingly spacious summit. Go east roughly 1.75 miles on Class 2/3 terrain if you want to tag Tabeguache, and return to the road via Tabeguache’s south ridge for a loop that includes the 14er. But the real fun is in rolling on a 4.8-mile northwest class 2/3 ridge-walk loop that traverses three more peaks: 13,596-foot Cyclone Mountain, 13,708-foot Grizzly Mountain and 12,949-foot Calico Mountain. From Calico, it’s an easy-to-navigate descent back to Cyclone Creek.
OVERNIGHT
FRENCH MOUNTAIN LOOP
Just 2.1 miles past the Mount Elbert trailhead on County Road 11 (passable for 4x4s or tough sport utility cars) is the split between County Road 11 and Halfmoon Road. Leave your vehicle here and take off on foot along the now burly CR 11 (which is more like a hiking trail than a road). This path follows the gorgeous Halfmoon Creek, a clear stream that is lined with wildflowers and vanilla scented pine trees. Roughly 2.9 miles later, the road ends at a gorgeous alpine meadow basin in the shadow of 13,727-foot French Mountain. The camping is open and airy, starting at about 11,400 feet. The summit of French can be reached by powering up the off-trail, Class 2 southeast slopes. To complete your loop, shoot through a 13,300-foot pass between Frasco (13,876 feet) and Casco Peaks (13,909 feet) into the western basin, where gentle slopes will lead you to the rough-for-trucks but easy-for-hikers Halfmoon Road. This 11.3-miles loop is feasible as an epic day hike (including stops atop Frasco’s and Casco’s summits) as well.
STEAMBOAT SPRINGS
Unlike the rocky, dry and stormy peaks that define the bulk of Colorado’s rocky mountains, the Park Range outside of Steamboat Springs is more like the green, mossy mountains of the Pacific northwest (minus the glaciers). Because of their northern latitude and lower elevation, these peaks receive more precipitation than most areas of the state, hence Steamboat’s legendary “champagne powder” in the winter months. If you’re looking to beat the heat and bask in open meadows of wildflowers and peaceful alpine rivers, get thee to Steamboat.
HIKE
HAHNS PEAK
At 10,839 feet, Hahns Peak may seem a bit underwhelming for hardcore Colorado hikers—that is, until they see it from the town of Steamboat Springs. Rising like a monolith from the densely forested land, Hahns Peak is an easy-to-reach and enjoyable half-day hike that offers unrivaled views of the valleys and mountains in the whole region. (It’s also a stellar winter adventure.) The 3.2-mile round trip from the Hahns Peak trailhead is a pleasant trek on a well-worn trail through a shady forest festooned with cartoon-like mushrooms, leading to a grand finale up a path of ceramic-like rock plates to the summit. At the top is an accessible fire lookout that gazes down upon the aspen forests, Steamboat Lake and the Steamboat ski area.
SCRAMBLE
BIG AGNES PEAK
She may not be as delicately named as other feminine mountains in Colorado… rumor has it that Big Agnes was most likely named after a robust woman of ill-repute who happened to leave a favorable impression with a certain surveyor of yore. Despite those shady stories, her massive namesake mountain makes for a darn fine scramble via its southeast ridge. Follow the Gold Creek Lake Trail from the Slavonia Trailhead to the Gilpin Creek Trail and Gilpin Lake, a 5.3-mile hike in total. From here, go off trail and follow Gilpin Creek another 2.2 miles to its source at an unnamed lake at 11,000 feet. Follow the east slopes to Agnes’ southeast ridge and finish up a Class 2/3 ridge 0.9 miles to the 12,059-foot summit. It’s a long 17 mile round trip that can be accomplished in a day by strong hikers but it also makes for a fantastic overnight adventure.
BACKPACK
MOUNT ZIRKEL / ZIRKEL WILDERNESS
Starting from the same Slavonia Trailhead as Big Agnes Peak, wonderful backpacking awaits by taking the Gold Creek Lake Trail to Red Dirt Pass (and up and over). 5.8 miles from the start of the trail, incredible alpine camping opens up: large, grassy meadows rich with wildflowers and streams, surrounded by rolling mountains occasionally adorned with a snazzy patch of snow. At 7.5 miles in, you’re at the top of Red Dirt Pass, where a truly vertiginous world opens up. A 1.2 mile Class 2/3 (mostly Class 2) ridgewalk goes to the highest point in the range, 12,180-foot. Mount Zirkel. Or head over Red Dirt Pass where the official trail fades out into the beautiful and remote Frying Pan Basin, one of the most isolated, secret sanctuaries in Colorado. A round trip out to Red Elephant Mountain and back completes of the state’s ultimate three-day backpacking weekends.
James Dziezynski is the author of Best Summit Hikes in Colorado and writes the Colorado Mountain Air blog on ElevationOutdoors.com.
