This January, Black Diamond (BD) will be releasing a variety of new/improved gear for 2011.
Over the past few weeks, I’ve had the opportunity to use some these new products, such as the improved Ozone harness, the redesigned ATC Guide, and Nitron Screwgate. Other items that I’ve checked out but not used in the field are the Gridlock Screwgate, Hoodwire, Chaos and Ultra Distance trekking poles.
The updated Ozone has replaced my aging Aura harness. (Yes, the Aura is designed for women — this doesn’t mean it is uncomfortable for guys; don’t ask why I have a girl’s harness.) One thing I immediately noticed about the Ozone was that the rigid gear loops are sewn slightly lower on the waistbelt than before. Essentially, the gear loops are stitched right to the bottom edge of the waistbelt which allows them to move. I cracked the plastic on the old gear loops when I slid into offwidths and chimneys, but with the new Ozone this is not a problem. Also, the strap that connects to the back of the leg loops has been improved.
Harnesses:
The Ozone/Aura use Kinetic Core Construction (This means the core moves). These harnesses are extremely comfortable and lightweight. The Ozone and Aura are bullhorn shaped — the design mimics the shape of the hips — and come with a pre-threaded Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle, four gear loops (not two like before) and a breathable, wicking liner. Though these harnesses are designed for sport, I take them on big walls and long trad routes since they’re so comfortable. The Ozone and Aura cost $99.95. They weigh 11.28 ounces.
Carabiners:
The big change for BD is that they now make hot-forged carabiners. Hot forging allows biners to have more unique shapes. The new BD biners are all keylock style which makes them snag free.
I mentioned the Gridlock Screwgate in a previous blog post, but it’s worth mentioning again since it’s one of many new biners by BD. The Gridlock is BD’s solution to belay biner crossloading. Other new biners are the Nitron Screwgate (1.8oz) and Nitron Bentgate (1.6oz). The Nitron Screwgate is a safe, secure ultra-light locking biner and the Nitron Bentgate is ergonomic and has a hot-forged gate.
The HoodWire is especially unique. It has a stainless steel wire hood that keeps debris out of the biner (which could keep the biner from shutting all the way), is snag free (which is super-important when cleaning the draws while lowering from a steep and traversing sport climb) and protects the nose from wear. I could go into how important a well designed hood is — I’ve done it before in other articles — but in this case I’ll just state that the hoodwire is a super-slick wiregate.
- The Gridlock is 2.7 ounces and costs $19.95
- the Nitron Screwgate, 1.8oz
Belay Devices:
The new ATC Guide is lighter and smoother than before due to its machined windows through the body. Though this device can be used on ropes 7.7-11mm, I used it on 9.4 and 10mm ropes. It worked perfectly for lead, TR and auto-block belaying.It also has a bigger auto-block release hole to accept all biners.
Trekking Poles:
BD also has new trekking poles coming out soon. The new Z Poles are three sections of carbon fiber which snap into place with “speed cones.” They have lightweight EVA foam grips and moisture wicking straps. 9.5 ounces a pair, $149.95. Available in sizes: 100, 110, 120, 130 cms.
www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/default/locale/choose/
