Climbers Take Note–Nylon vs. Spectra/Dyneema

It’s become a bit of an ongoing point, but one that seems like it hasn’t yet sunk in with many climbers out there–that is, the inherent differences of Spectra/Dyneema and good-old nylon. Spectra/Dymeema is the latest-greatest material in slings, cordage, and even backpacks…but not knowing its shortcomings is potentially deadly.

There are ample resources on the Web for researching the topic. I just came across this informational video produced by the Welsh company, DMM. The bottom line is Spectra/Dyneema offers fantastic properties in some respects, but is dreadfully suited to certain applications–like daisy chains, or essentially any system without a dynamic component. In general, the rope acts as the dynamic link in the chain, though other gadgets (like an energy-absorbing sling like a Yates Screamer) could do the trick.

Watch and check out the tests. Nylon does admirably as a tried-and-true, inexpensive material. Spectra/Dyneema is absolutely fantastic, save its low melting point (100 degrees F below nylon’s; NEVER use Spectra/Dyneema in any situation in which it might run against another fiber, particularly when under load) and inelasticity (less than five percent). So, use your ultralight Spectra/Dyneema slings and ‘draws…but just always make sure the rope is part of the system.

Check out the vid and enjoy! Thanks to DMM for posting.

Now see why climbing High-Tops are back!

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