The heinous flooding of September had one little up side–an epic ice season for Colorado’s Front Range. Longtime guides and climbers say there are lines in that haven’t been seen in decades and classic climbs are fatter than ever. Add the government shutdown to the damage from flooding, though, and we almost missed the goods. Stories of climbers evading patrolling rangers in Rocky Mountain National Park threatened to put a bummer on the ice bonanza, but fortunately the Feds reopened and it was game on. Perfect setting for a few days in my Rab Baltoro Guide jacket.
My last couple gear reviews have raved over do-it-all gear like Lowa’s Weisshorn boot and CAMP’s Alpax piolet. The Baltoro Guide ($300; 1 lb. 11 oz., 782g) steers us back into quiver or niche products, though. It’s a cold-weather, drier-climate shell crafted of Polartec’s Power Shield soft-shell material. It’s absolutely awesome in its environment, but above 20 F or so, it’s simply overkill. Think Hyalite and Longs over Lee Vining and summer in the Cascades.
Fit
Rab kills it again with fit. The Baltoro Guide falls into Rab’s “regular” cut, allowing for a little more layering if necessary. I haven’t worn this shell over anything but a thin-to-medium base layer (Patagonia’s R1 hoody and sundry thinner pieces) and haven’t needed to (more on this later). Arms fall past the wrist and secure over the cuff of one’s gloves, no problem. The hood pulls easily over a helmet and the waist hem falls several inches below a climbing harness.
I’m pretty average build, 5’10”, 165lbs., and wear a 41R suit jacket, just for comparison. The medium Baltoro fits me very, very well.
Materials
Rab uses Polartec Power Shield throughout. The fabric is a membrane soft-shell, meaning there is a sandwiched layer between the outer shell and inner fleece. Polartec’s membrane features tiny holes (the Power Shield O2 breathes slightly better by having–you guessed it–more holes!) to allow moisture to escape, but also a bit of air permeability. Air permeability gives the garment an exaggerated sense of breathability because you get some evaporative cooling from outside air blowing against the body. Power Shield can feature any number of interior fleeces and the Baltoro uses two–a low-loft microgrid in parts of the hood and on the sides, with a higher-loft/fleece throughout the body. Polartec markets the stuff as a replacement to a multi-layered system and in a cold environment the stuff works the way it’s advertised. Wicks sweat, offers some insulation, and sheds moisture very well thanks to an effective durable water-repellent (DWR) coating. Build
The Baltoro Guide feels a bit “old-school” in the sense it doesn’t have waterproof zippers, there are tons of seams, and the stitching is a bit bulky. I imagine designers could go back and shave a couple ounces off the thing pretty easily, but this is a minor gripe, given the jacket’s warmth and durability.
Drawcords and cordlocks are bulkier than some, but they all work and function well. The cinch cords around the hood exit the exterior fabric by the wearer’s collarbones, making them easy to reach and also putting them out of reach of your face–a plus in windy weather.
Hook-and-loop closures at the wrists lock around gloves well (more on this in a sec).
Two A-frame pockets on the torso, with one exterior and one interior pocket organize your bars, glasses, lip balm, etc. I could lose one of the smaller pockets, but it’s fine as is.
And?
I spent a half-dozen days in the Baltoro Guide last winter and have already had it out a couple times this fall. Most notably I got to follow Rab athlete, Scott Bennett, on a hard route up on Longs–in pretty harsh weather. Spindrift pounded us every five or 10 minutes for seven hours straight. My pants were iced over, while the Baltoro Guide was burly warm and didn’t have a bit of wetted-out fabric. I led the first pitch and had a couple good dousings, without a bit of snow getting into my warm, happy interior.
I haven’t groveled too badly in the thing, but some mixed pitches haven’t left a scratch on the face fabric. The oversized pullcords and other hardware are welcome additions with bulkier gloves on, too.
All told the Baltoro Guide is a great piece. Warm, tough, comfortable. It’s $150 less than the OR Lodestar and the same price as the Patagonia Mixed Guide Hoody. It’s a bit heavier than both those pieces. If a cold-weather soft-shell is in your future, then I’d put the Baltoro Guide at the head of the field. Sure, try the others on and see what’s out there.
–Big thanks to Scott Bennett for the photos and to follow his exploits, check out his blog, Rope and Summit!
Rob Coppolillo is a freelance writer based in Boulder, Colorado. He’s the author of Holy Spokes: A Biking Bible for Everyone and a contributing editor at Elevation Outdoors. He’s also an AMGA/IFMGA aspirant guide in the rock, alpine, and ski disciplines, as well as an AIARE 1, 2, and 3 avalanche professional.
