Climbers and skiers probably know the name Exum–both because of the famous guide service located in the Tetons, as well as the most popular route on the Grand Teton, the Exum Ridge. Named for founder Glenn Exum, Exum Mountain Guides has been helping clients learn the intricacies of rock, ice, and alpine climbing since 1929. Lately they’ve gotten into the ski business, too. Their operation in the Tetons is their most well known, but they also work in Utah, Nevada, and now Colorado. I’ll be sharing tips from their guides a few times a month, on everything from technical systems for rock climbing to gear options for alpine routes to backcountry ski safety.
This week, veteran guide Tom Sciolino talks about prepping a climb and things to do “before you go.”
“Reading the guide book is the obvious starting point,” says Sciolino. “Beyond that you can check the web and ask around. The more information you and your partner can put together, the better.”
It’s a good idea to photocopy the route topo out of the guidebook. If you can copy off your printer at home, use waterproof or “adventure” paper, as it’s more durable in the field. Once you’ve copied the topo, write additional info (notes from the web, info on the descent, problem areas along the route, etc.) on the back. If you copied onto plain printer paper, then after you’ve made your notes you can take packing tape and “dirtbag laminate” it–cover it with strips of packing tape, front and back. Now it’s sorta waterproof and tear resistant. It’s also a good idea for both partners to have a route topo, that way you don’t find yourself on lead wondering if you go left or right at the roof 80 feet above the belay (that was me on Sunstar, in Eldo, the other day–yikes!).
“If you’re camping out, then figure out specifics like where to camp, where to park, and what amenities are available–water, pit toilets, fire pits,” Sciolino advises. He adds, as a warning, “We camped in the South Platte one time, but we didn’t know there wasn’t water that time of year. We boiled our noodles for dinner in beer. I didn’t eat much. The next day we just climbed. It’s what you did back then.”
Unless ramen-beer noodles are your thing, do your homework on approaches, bivy information, etc.
