“Next figure out the nature of the climbing area in general,” says Sciolino. “Is it sandstone, limestone, granite, trad, sport, single or multipitch? Any specific gear requirements? You don’t want to show up in Vedauwoo without some big pieces!”
Every climbing area has its own personality–the weather, the gear, rock type, so figure it out ahead of time so you’re not surprised when you arrive. Eldorado, on the weekend, can be crowded in certain areas, so eyeball a route “off the beaten path” perhaps. Maybe it’s a good time to try something with a longer approach to avoid the crowds, or read route descriptions and pick a line with less loose rock.
For bigger routes, Sciolino advises learning or memorizing the route description and its descent. “Look for additional escape routes should something happen, like weather or an injury. Get an idea of the typical rack for the route and what length rope you’ll need. Think through possible rescue scenarios, too.”
With a little prep you can nix trouble before it starts. Check the weather forecast, have your route topo, the right gear, and all your descent info. Now you’ll climb with the calm mind of a Zen monk…or (in my case) you’ll be a little less likely to whimper when the going gets tough.
For expert instruction, help getting started climbing outside, self-rescue clinics, learn-to-lead classes, or a good multi-pitch outing, give Exum Mountain Guides a call (307/733-2297) or contact Exum Boulder directly via Tom Sciolino at 307/730-1185. Tom can tailor a guide-day specifically to your learning goals or just get you out on an Eldo classic. Best of luck and happy climbing.
