This week let’s talk about sport climbing. Though much more controlled than ice or trad climbing, clipping bolts still requires complete attention and plenty of planning ahead. Here are a few considerations to make your sessions safer and more enjoyable.
Before you head out, check the guidebook and Mountain Project for beta on the crag and routes. How many draws will you need? Any longer (alpine) ones? How long of a rope will you need?
While you’re packing your gear, pay extra attention to your rope–are you sure of its length? If you’ve cut it down, the center mark might not be the true center any more–good to know if you’re rappelling. If you’re lowering–typical on sport routes these days–double check the rope’s length.
Once at the cliff, no matter if you’re lowering or if your climber plans to rappel, always tie a knot in the end of the rope. Plans can change during a route, but if you always have a knot in the end of the rope (or you’re tied into it), you can’t lower a climber off the end. Knotting the rope takes five seconds and would prevent dozens of accidents every year if people did it. Do it!
Belaying with an auto-locking device like a GriGri or Cinch still requires attention and skill. The vast majority of ground falls in gyms have been on these devices, usually because of improper technique. If your belayer doesn’t seem dialed–don’t risk it. Once you’re “on belay,” you shouldn’t have to alert your belayer you’re falling. She or he should be ready and if you’re within sight, they should be paying attention. A good belayer stands out of the way of a potential fall when you’re starting out (unless he or she is spotting), feeds rope at the right time, and is attentive.
Discuss with your belayer what you’ll do at the top of the route–lower, rappel, or perhaps walk off. If you’re threading the rope to lower, know one system well and stick with it. Study other tricks for lowering, but using with the system you know best develops solid habits–this will come in handy if you finish a route in the dark or in bad weather.
Practice other systems for lowering, rappeling, and self-rescue–but do it at home, at the gym, or in a controlled environment at the crag. Don’t wait until you’re stuck to figure out hauling systems or belay escapes! Have more experienced friends help or hire a guide–a day of self-rescue class is a great investment in your skillset and it will pay big dividends if you’re ever in a pinch. It will also open up new terrain to you.
Exum Mountain Guides has been taking people to the mountains for 80 years. Exum offers courses and custom days for groups or individuals, on rock, ice, and snow. Give Exum a call–(307/733-2297)–if you’re interested in learning new techniques, creating a custom course for you and your friends, or just exploring a new route with an experienced guide. Exum works in Utah, throughout Colorado’s Front Range, and of course, in the Tetons.
