We’ve had a pretty dry fall so far, which means you’re still climbing, right? I hope so–Front Range cragging is great on crisp days when the air is cold, but the rock is warm. Here are a few ideas for budding trad climbers heading out to Eldorado and beyond.
“Before you go, research your route,” says Tom Sciolino, veteran guide for Exum. “Check the rating and not just the grade, but the ‘seriousness’ factor. Is it ‘R’ or ‘X?'”
You already know routes are graded 5.0 through 5.15b, but you’ll also occasionally see a secondary grade, from G to PG to PG-13 to R and culminating in X. X indicates there are places where it is impossible to find gear and a fall would result in severe injury or death. Welcome to Eldorado Canyon, amigos! G suggests ample protection and safe terrain…you get the gist.
“Make sure you know if it’s a single- or multi-pitch route. Check where the anchors are, if any, and know the descent route as well as escape routes during the climb,” advises Sciolino.
Most climbers these days, if they’re onsighting, print a version of the route topo, and carry it along in their pockets. You can cover it in packing tape for a dirtbag job of laminating–it works pretty well, actually.
It’s worth glancing at the route’s gear requirements, too. If there’s a particularly wide section or lots of small placements, most guidebooks will mention the size of cam or gear you’ll need.
“If unsure bring a standard rack which includes: a set of stoppers, small cams to three inches, 15 draws, six over-the-shoulder runners, a few extra biners and two locking biners. This is a basic rack. Find out specifically what the route takes if you can (e.g. Indian Creek requires all cams and usually several of one size for a pitch),” Sciolino says.
Gear routes will occasionally have bolted anchors, which can save on nuts and cams, but be sure: plan on a minimum of three pieces (sometimes four!) per anchor. That means you’ll have between six and eight pieces tied up in your anchors, so plan accordingly.
The length of approach, route, and descent will dictate some of your gear choices, too. If it’s more than a half-hour to walk off the route, or a bunch of rappels, then you’ll probably want a lightweight pair of “approach” shoes. Consider bringing water, too, and using a “bullet” pack. Black Diamond makes several different types as do Marmot, Arcteryx, Deuter, and other brands.
“For a long day out know your water supply,” Sciolino recommends. “Do you need a Camelbak for a long route? Or for shorter routes a small water bottle from the grocery store with some webbing duct taped to it will do just fine.”
Remember to check the weather forecast and plan accordingly. A rain jacket or light wind-shell is a good idea, especially in the alpine. Today’s lightweight jackets by Rab, Marmot, Patagonia, The North Face, and others offer tremendous protection for very little weight.
And lastly, says Sciolino, “Don’t bring all the stuff you don’t need.”
Travel light, have fun, and spend 20 minutes prepping for your route. You’ll be safer and happier. Good luck!
Exum Mountain Guides has been taking people to the mountains for 80 years. Exum offers courses and custom days for groups or individuals, on rock, ice, and snow. Give Exum a call–(307/733-2297)–if you’re interested in learning new techniques, creating a custom course for you and your friends, or just exploring a new route with an experienced guide. Exum works in Utah, throughout Colorado’s Front Range, and of course, in the Tetons.
