They call it the “new alpinism,” but it sure feels old-school. September 15 I go once more unto the breach for the final alpine exam in the American Mountain Guides Association curriculum. The alpine is my weakest discipline, so I’m trying to over-prepare in the hopes the weather/guiding gods smile upon me with some luck.
I received a media copy of Scott Johnston and Steve House’s new book, Training for the New Alpinism, a couple months ago and I’m basing my physical prep on their program. In a nutshell, the book is both a good reminder of some tried-and-true training advice and a fresh look at the latest research into human performance. Training presents it all in a gorgeous, enjoyable 448-page bible for anyone looking to train efficiently and seriously–very seriously.
I’ll leave the goods for you to discover, but suffices to say the prescription is not for hour-long workouts at your local CrossFad purveyor or lazy afternoons clipping bolts. I’ve been writing my own program as best I can from the information therein. Yesterday I put together several hours of trad climbing and short-roping, with a two-hour weighted uphill hike for dessert. Check out the bag of rocks in the pic–ouch! Sweat, moaning, and self pity in deep doses. The day’s training works technique with the trad climbing and short-roping, with a healthy second session for muscular endurance.
Looking ahead to my alpine exam, I went down to CAMP this week and patched some holes in my gear quiver, too. Among the many
gems I purchased are the Xenon Trek trekking poles (12.7 ounces FOR THE PAIR!; $80). These are the heavier of the two CAMP trekking poles, believe it or not, but the best thing about them–they break into four sections, rather than three. This allows a climber, runner, or hiker to stash the Xenons inside their pack, rather than leave them to stick out the top or poke around the side. Less snagging on trees, less chance of losing them, way cleaner set-up while you’re climbing.
The Xenons are aluminum, deploy instantly, and yes, they’re crazy light–and require a bit gentler care then beefier models. Worth it, in my opinion!
