A century-and-a-half of experience gives Mammut the advantage in crafting mountain-worthy technical gear.
Santa might just be Swiss, judging from the box I had waiting to greet me upon return from traveling. A brand new rope and helmet, from none other than the legendary company Mammut–the perfect score for my upcoming rock guide course and aspirant exam through the American Mountain Guides Association.
My guide company, Alpine World Ascents, uses Mammut ropes exclusively, so I’ve been spoiled over the past few seasons, getting to use their 9.2mm “Revelation” rope (in 40m, 50m, and 60m lengths), their 8.9 “Serenity,” 10mm “Galaxy”, and now the 9.5mm “Infinity.” There are plenty of quality ropes on the market these days, but I’m going to argue that Mammut cords are every bit as good as any other brand–if not clearly better. Here’s why:
–Every Mammut rope I’ve measured has been exactly its specified length, and the middle marks have been spot-on, dead-center at the halfway mark. You’d be surprised how many other brands come off the coil short, with mismatched halves…you name it. It is simply a safety issue–so check your rope lengths!
–Mammut sheath construction lasts and lasts–even when short-roping and using terrain belays for anchors and lowers. Nothing shreds a rope faster than using it to lower around a horn, especially when it’s wet. I’ve hammered both my 50m and 60m 9.2mm Revelation and they are weathered…but hanging tough. My boss, Markus Beck, has used the 8.9mm Serenity extensively in Europe and he reports good results, too. I recently climbed with a buddy using a smart-looking rope made by a well known brand…and the sheath on it had slipped a good 15cm at either end, leaving a dangerous “empty sock” at each end–just sheath, no core. The rope, too, looked brand new. Junk…and spooky!
–You can get most Mammut ropes in “bi-pattern” design, which means each half of the rope has a different sheath pattern, making it easy and quick (which means SAFE) to find the middle of the rope–even at night. Sure, it costs a bit more for a bi-pattern rope, but the $30 will seem laughable when you feel the end of your rope whip through your belay device…ahhhhh!
–Handling. The Mammuts aren’t too stiff, nor too supple out of the box. And they tend to keep their handling characteristics over time, rather than becoming a twist-prone noodle.
–The dry treatments (Mammut makes a variety, including a completely inside-and-out, every-strand-treated version) seem to persist longer than others. I owned a famous-brand cord a few years back and after a single season I simply couldn’t take the thing out in the snow. It became so waterlogged, by the end of the day it seemed to double in weight. I’m sure its strength properties diminished, too–the Mammuts get damp, but never wet. Again, it’s an expense, but it’s worth it if you’re alpine or ice climbing.
So I’m headed to rock guide course in the next 10 days and I’ll get beaucoup pitches on my new 9.5 Infinity. I’ve used it twice so far and it handles nicely. Between it and the Revelation (9.2mm), I think I prefer the Revelation for personal use, while the Infinity seems like a better choice when out with clients–a) it’s a better option if you end up toproping and b) it’s not so skinny I worry about a client dropping my fat arse were I to fall off something. The Revelation is skin-ny and it’s in the back of my head when an inexperienced belayer is holding it. Full report to follow.
Along with the rope, Mammut sent me their new helmet, the “El Cap.” It’s crazy light, very comfortable, and has a slim profile–though I’ve only used it a couple days. It seems to have a bit less styrofoam (which absorbs impact forces in a fall, just like a bike helmet) on the sides and lower back than some other models I’ve used (like the Petzl Meteor), so maybe it’s less designed for a lead fall, and more for falling objects? I’ll do a bunch more pitches in it and let you know what I think. So far I’d say it’s the most comfortable helmet I’ve ever worn and I love that it’s narrower than some others. I tend not to scrape it and bump it on stuff quite as often, judging by my first few days in it. Stay tuned.
Thanks to Mammut for its support and for supporting Alpine World Ascents–we love the hook up!
