Standing at the bottom of the Legends Lift, I gaze upon a flat, vast alpine meadow that is void of trees and stretches to the horizon. No roads, no machinery, no utility buildings or power lines, just the chilly rush of powder spinning over the tundra, rendering distant peaks in foreboding, opaque, jagged outlines. For the moment, there are no other skiers. Chairs quietly float and disappear into the overexposed ether. They seem the mountainous equivalents of ancient Greek ferries that ushered souls across the River Styx, though instead of the imposing Charon at the oar there’s a scruffy dude in Rastafarian-colored ski pants. Close enough.
Ascending above the clouds presents a stunning panorama of high San Juan peaks. Signs of the civilized world are nearly absent on the undeveloped mountainsides. Valley roads are concealed in dense tracts of evergreens. Raw beauty resonates throughout the wilderness making it easy to forget you are, technically, at a resort.
Durango Mountain Resort informally retains the locals’ “Purgatory” moniker, named for Purgatory Creek and the previously alluded to open meadows known as Purgatory Flats. Located 22 miles from the city of Durango and on the outer rim of the San Juan Mountains, the modest ski village is an outpost in one of Colorado’s most stunning landscapes. Lift lines are non-existent and within the 1,360 acres of inbound terrain, there are a wealth of secrets waiting to be discovered.
Purgatory boasts excellent intermediate terrain (51%) that varies from winding cruisers to surprisingly sustained tree runs. The other 50% of the mountain is evenly split between frontside greens and some genuinely gnarly expert terrain throughout the mountain. Low crowds keep fresh powder from getting skied off and it’s not unusual to track fresh lines through the trees late into the afternoon. The black runs off Legends Lift alternate between steep, smooth bumps and speedy trees that are challenging enough to satiate advanced skiers and riders. Terrain parks in the Paradise Frestyle Arena are loaded with natural and man-made features, a good mix for hucksters of all abilities.
At the heart of all the fun is Durango Mountain Village. Condos and resorts don’t overwhelm the mountain, which helps retain the local small town vibe. The centerpiece of the village is the Purgatory Lodge, completed in 2008. The modern ski-in ski-out rooms are simultaneously spacious and cozy; for those making the pilgrimage from the Front Range, the comfortable accommodations are like arriving at an old friend’s ski condo (provided your friends are very neat and into elegant western interior design).
Durango Mountain is promoted as a family-friendly resort, which can be loaded term to potential skiers. Rest assured, you won’t be dodging legions of pint sized hand grenades on the mountain as the terrain spreads out quite nicely. Families will appreciate the modest prices and plentiful ski programs available for children. For those of us whose children are furry and have four legs, the resort is extremely pet friendly. And as previously mentioned, the blend of intermediate trails is balanced nicely with long, peaceful greens and steep, challenging blacks.
The austere beauty of the the surrounding mountains must be mentioned to paint a complete picture of the Durango Mountain area. Close to town are numerous excellent snowshoe locales. Cascade Creek Road, about a five minute drive from the resort, is an ideal winter hike with dogs. Not much farther up the road along Highway 550 are high passes with excellent snowmobiling, snowshoeing and backcountry ski potential. There’s even decent ice climbing if you choose to bring your ice axes.
Or to sum it up, yes it’s worth the road trip out there. Quality skiing, low crowds and stunning alpine wilderness create a natural, refreshing atmosphere that cannot be found in the busy I-70 resorts. Don’t forget Durango is a short drive away for those seeking restaurants, nightlife or simply a taste of true western spirit. And please excuse the permanent, guilty grins on the faces of the locals – they know they have it pretty good in their little corner of Colorado.
To learn more visit the Durango Mountain Resort website.
