Jeff Lowe’s “Metanoia,” a moving documentary film about the Colorado-based climbing legend, rocked indie-film festivals throughout North America and Europe this year, scooping the Grand Prize at Les Diablerets Adventure Film Festival in Switzerland and the keynote “Make Your Own Legends” award at the Boulder Adventure Film Festival. “Metanoia”—aptly named after Lowe’s solo climb of the Eiger’s north face—chronicles that visionary ascent and highlights Lowe’s prolific career, reaching back to his first ascent of Telluride’s Bridalveil Falls in 1970 through mixed ice-climbing mastery on Octopussy (M8) in Vail to some of his greatest alpine performances in the Himalayas, including his 1979 solo ascent of the south face of 22,450-foot Ama Dablam. While his climbs are the stuff of legend, “Metanoia” drives home Lowe’s recent, challenging years fighting through a degenerative neurological disorder—which hasn’t stopped generations of climbers from still viewing Jeff Lowe as one of greatest alpinists in the world.
You’ve had so many remarkable ascents. Which one(s) stand out the most and why?
Certainly among the most outstanding, whole-life-changing climbs, was the North Ridge of Latok I in 1978 in Pakistan, with my cousin George Lowe, Jim Donini and Michael Kennedy. We packed rations for 17 days and started up the 8,000-foot-high ridge in what could be characterized as an alpine-style attempt. At 19,000 feet, we had already weathered a week-long storm on half rations. I had a recurrence of dengue fever that had taken me down a couple of weeks prior. On the third day, still crammed in a snow cave, both my fever and the storm relented a bit. We tried for the summit the next morning, making it past the steep rock headwall and onto the lower angled summit snow slopes. But I was moving too slow and the storm returned in full force. Probably less than 500 feet from the top, we turned around and began the first of seventy-five rappels. Over 40 strong teams from many nations have tried to complete the route since. None have reached our high point.
What did you take away from that experience?
I walked away from Latok I with feelings of gratitude and love––for my partners who shepherded me safely down, for being shown my limits and for the gifts of life and incredible people I share it with.
What makes Metanoia such a seminal climb in your life?
Metanoia came at a time when I had lost my rudder. I had left my wife. I was estranged from my two-year old daughter, which hurt me deeply (and hurt my daughter even more). I was also trying, without success, to save my company from bankruptcy. I needed a break, one that would reset my compass. I chose to make a statement to myself (and to climbers in general, I suppose) that the largest and most difficult climbs can be accomplished in the lightest and purest style—to do the most direct unclimbed route, alone, in winter and without bolts. Metanoia went beyond my hopes of recalibrating my perspective: it gave me a new insight into the nature of everything, including myself.
A lot of people have mistaken your disorder for ALS (myself included…)
I have never been diagnosed with ALS. I have been told it is a motor neuron disease similar to ALS, but not the same. Connie, my partner, likes to call it JLS, the “Jeff Lowe Syndrome.” It’s a first ascent in the disease department.
This has been an incredible journey for you. What have you learned?
I look back at my climbing experiences, and I’m surprised to be content. I’ve had more than my fair share. I derive vicarious pleasure from younger climbers finding their own visions to follow, and find satisfaction where I see my own climbing has had a positive influence. I’ve learned that there are higher peaks than Sagarmatha [Everest] and steeper walls than Cerro Torre’s. Life is a great adventure and adventure requires facing the unknown with all senses activated and a love of discovery. Death is a gift—it gives value to life. It’s also the last great adventure. Along the way an abiding sense of humor will help lift you over the rough spots.
What is the meaning of life for you?
We are here to learn, mostly learning is fun, but it doesn’t have to be fun to be fun. So, in the words of my father: “Have fun, work hard and get smart—in that order”.
What do you want to impart to young or aspiring alpinists?
Climbing is dangerous, but if it calls to you, it’s the most glorious thing I know.
Jordan Campbell is Colorado-based writer, filmmaker and Marmot Ambassador Athlete. For more information about Jeff Lowe and “Metanoia” please visit JeffLoweClimber.com.
