Earlier this year I had the opportunity to return to the Hawaiian islands, 20 years since my first trip to Oahu. This time, the destination was Maui, known as the “Valley Isle,” a captivating blend of unique, stunning landscapes, both upscale and casual all at once, and a melting pot of culture and vibe. Its geology, coastlines, vibrant traditions, and the resilience of its people displayed in the wake of last year’s Lahaina fires made it a compelling destination for my family seeking both adventure and insight. Coloradans have a lot in common with the sun-loving, flow-state-seeking residents of Hawaii. It’s amazing when something as simple as being in the ocean, surfing, enjoying watching the sunset, practicing yoga, perhaps sipping a beer or strumming on a guitar or ukulele bring us together, and these basic elements of life are what have united me with people around the world, despite any differences in background or skin color.
With almost no humidity, no currency exchange, the ease of not having to go through customs, and no language barrier, I very much get the appeal of Hawaii after this last trip. It’s further to go, but in many ways worth it, if you’re only doing one beach vacation a year.
Maui, the second largest island in the archipelago, has an enduring cultural tapestry woven from ancient Hawaiian traditions and modern influences. Maui’s culinary scene is a vibrant reflection of its cultural diversity. From food trucks serving fresh poke to fine dining experiences featuring locally sourced ingredients, don’t miss the chance to try traditional dishes like loco moco or enjoy a farm-to-table meal at one of the island’s many acclaimed restaurants. The weekly farmers’ markets are also perfect for sampling fresh tropical fruits and homemade treats.
The island is steeped in history, with the ancient practice of hula and the melodic strains of ukulele music echoing throughout lush valleys. Even the Hawaii state flag itself is a bit confusing, as it is the only state flag to feature a symbol from a foreign nation on it, the Union Jack, said by some to appease the British, some say to honor, but either way, these islands represent a Polynesian melting pot unlike any other, with a long history of not just colonization, but evolving over centuries through tribal warfare and various levels of centralized organization culminating at one point with a Hawaiian Kingdom. Visitors can immerse themselves in the culture at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, where performances and exhibits showcase local talent.
Lahaina, once the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, is a historic town that once played a pivotal role in the whaling industry. Today it is home to charming boutiques, art galleries, beaches, restaurants, and the iconic Banyan Tree, which offers a glimpse into the island’s past.
The fires that swept through Lahaina in August 2023 left a profound impact, devastating homes, businesses, and cherished landmarks. Dealing with the destruction from wildfires is another thing Coloradoans can relate to when it comes to visiting Hawaii. But local businesses and developers are working together to rebuild, infusing the region with a renewed sense of purpose and identity. Tourism is a cornerstone of Maui’s economy, contributing significantly to the island’s prosperity. In 2019, prior to the pandemic, Maui welcomed over 3 million visitors, generating approximately $5 billion in revenue. Unfortunately many businesses were still recovering from the pandemic when wildfires ravaged the island, stoked by steady, high winds and dry grasses and shrubs. The wildfires were fueled by dry conditions and strong winds from Hurricane Dora. The loss of life was tragic, with some residents still unaccounted for. However, the spirit of aloha shines brightly in the aftermath. Fundraisers, volunteer programs, and donations continue to mobilize resources to aid those affected.
In the aftermath, numerous lawsuits have emerged as survivors seek accountability from various entities. Some lawsuits are targeting utility companies, alleging negligence in maintaining power lines that may have sparked the fires. Others focus on local government for their perceived failure to implement effective emergency responses and evacuation plans. As these legal battles unfold, they highlight the ongoing frustration of residents who feel let down by systems meant to protect them. Amidst legal turmoil, conspiracy theories have proliferated, fueled by social media and public distrust. Some residents have speculated that fires were deliberately set to clear the way for development projects. Others question whether there was adequate warning for evacuations. These theories have only added to the community’s anxiety and a sense of division as they grapple with grief and loss. Many residents are displaced, living in temporary shelters or with family, and the emotional toll as you bypass historic downtown Lahaina is evident. Businesses that once thrived are now shuttered, impacting livelihoods and the local economy. Community gatherings and support networks have emerged as crucial lifelines, fostering resilience among those affected, evident as many businesses pivoted to offer support and resources. For travelers, visiting Maui means not only enjoying its beauty but also participating in its recovery. Supporting local businesses and engaging with the community fosters a sense of connection.
As the island recovers, tourism is rebounding, and by 2024 visitor arrivals had surged to nearly 85% of pre-pandemic levels, with increased interest in sustainable and responsible travel. Efforts to promote eco-friendly tourism and support local communities are gaining traction, reflecting a broader trend towards sustainable practices. Local insights highlight that every dollar spent by a visitor supports multiple facets of the community, from local farmers and artisans to service workers and hospitality businesses. Engaging with these local businesses fosters not only economic resilience but also cultural exchange.
Upcountry Maui
Venturing into Maui’s ‘Upcountry’ offers a refreshing change of pace from the island’s sun-soaked beaches. Nestled on the slopes of Haleakalā, this region is a tapestry of rolling pastures, charming small towns, and local farms.
Staying at Lumeria Maui is like stepping into a piece of history—originally built in 1910 as a retirement home for plantation workers, the property has been beautifully restored into a boutique yoga retreat. The main house at Lumeria is now the oldest wooden building on the island, after the fires. Wellness and tranquility are yours, with lush gardens, panoramic views, and open-air yoga spaces. It was truly one of my favorite places I’ve stayed anywhere in the world, as the well appointed rooms and convenient pool and amenities still have you well connected to the earth during your entire stay.
As you explore the area, you’ll encounter quaint villages like Makawao, known for its paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) heritage and vibrant art scene, and Kula, famed for its lavender farms and farm-to-table eateries. The Upcountry is a haven for local art shops, charming galleries, less touristy restaurants, and cozy cafés that invite you to slow down and savor the creative spirit of Maui.
Lanai: The Untamed Island of Tranquility
For a day trip, Lanai, often referred to as the “Pineapple Isle,” offers a serene escape from the bustling tourist hotspots of Hawaii, just a short ferry ride from Maui. This small island is characterized by rugged landscapes and a history rooted in pineapple farming.
Hulopoe Bay is one of the most private and perfect beaches of the isles, with crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling, where you’ll spot colorful fish and sea turtles. Lanai is also home to the luxurious Sensei Lanai, a wellness resort that emphasizes holistic health and rejuvenation through personalized wellness programs, meditation, and outdoor activities. Visitors can explore the lush greenery of the Garden of the Gods, a striking lunar-like landscape dotted with colorful rock formations that create a breathtaking backdrop for hiking and photography.
One of the island’s most beloved attractions is the Lanai Cat Sanctuary, a unique haven dedicated to the care and protection of more than 600 rescued cats. This 25-acre sanctuary is not only a delightful place for animal lovers, but a crucial part of the community’s efforts to manage the local feral cat population. Visitors stroll through the sanctuary interacting with the felines, and can even adopt a cat while enjoying the beautiful surroundings. This is an absolute bucket list item for cat lovers.
With its quiet charm and stunning natural beauty, Lanai provides a unique opportunity for travelers seeking tranquility and connection with nature, making it an ideal complement to any Hawaiian adventure. Whether you’re exploring hidden coves, indulging in a spa day, or simply soaking in the island’s laid-back atmosphere, Lanai is a hidden gem that promises unforgettable memories.
Kā’anapali: A Coastal Paradise
Kā’anapali, a vibrant resort area on Maui’s northwest coast, is renowned for stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a lively atmosphere. Once a thriving whaling village, it has transformed into a premier destination for visitors seeking relaxation and adventure. The golden sands of Kā’anapali Beach are ideal for sunbathing, swimming, and water sports, while Black Rock offers excellent snorkeling opportunities to explore vibrant marine life. The area boasts a wealth of accommodations, from luxurious golf resorts to beachfront hotels, all within easy reach of dining and shopping options at the Whalers Village. An iconic cliff diving ceremony at Black Rock provides a spectacular display of culture and tradition.
Nestled along the stunning Kāʻanapali Coast, the Westin Maui Resort & Spa has emerged as a highlight of Maui’s revival, inviting travelers to experience its breathtaking beauty and rich cultural heritage. Following a significant transformation, the resort now stands as a beacon of rejuvenation, embodying the spirit of “Mālama Maui”—a call to visit with respect and responsibility. At the Westin Maui, every detail is crafted to promote well-being and personal growth.
The resort’s recent multi-million dollar renovation includes the rebranding of the Ocean Tower into Kūkahi Tower, a name that resonates with deeper Hawaiian meanings of growth and vitality. Here, guests are enveloped in a serene environment that reflects the island’s natural beauty, featuring spacious rooms adorned with bespoke artwork and breathtaking ocean views. The Kūkahi Tower boasts a unique social center that offers a blend of relaxation and entertainment, making it an ideal retreat for families. The culinary experience is equally impressive, with Ulu Kitchen presenting a menu that celebrates the diverse flavors of Hawaii, curated by renowned chef Peter Merriman. Guests immerse themselves in the island’s beauty, cuisine, and culture through the Westin’s nightly lūʻaus, and they leave with not just memories, but a deeper connection to the spirit of Maui. Whether you’re exploring the lush landscapes, taking up a new sport, embracing the local culture, or contributing to recovery efforts, a visit to Maui promises to be an enriching and transformative experience.
Cycling on Maui: An Epic Ride and Cycle to the Sun
For cyclists, Maui offers some of the most breathtaking and challenging routes in the world. From scenic coastal roads to the winding paths up the slopes of Haleakalā, the island is a cycling mecca of sorts.
Whether you’re an experienced road cyclist or just looking to enjoy a leisurely downhill, Maui has something for every level of rider. But for tourists, one of the most popular activities is the Haleakalā downhill ride. After a sunrise tour of the crater or a van-assisted ride to the top, riders can coast down the volcano’s slopes, experiencing breathtaking views that evolve from barren, wind-swept volcanic landscapes to lush forests and coastal vistas.
Maui Bombers, whom I sought out because of their emphasis on higher-end bikes which they update every year, has become a local staple; and they were truly some of the nicest guys I’ve ever worked with on a trip like this. It’s a must-do for anyone seeking the ultimate downhill ride on Maui. Known for their expert guides and deep knowledge of the island’s roads, Maui Bombers offers a thrilling, well-organized descent from below the summit of Haleakalā, with a commitment to safety, fun, and showcasing Maui’s diverse landscapes with guides who ensure you not only have a blast but also learn about the island’s unique ecosystems and history. Their passion for cycling and the island’s bounty is contagious.
But for those seeking a true test of endurance and strength, Maui also offers one of the most challenging and unique cycling races in the world: Cycle to the Sun. Cycle to the Sun is a race like no other. Held annually, it challenges cyclists to ascend from sea level to the summit of Haleakalā, the dormant volcano and Maui’s most prominent landmark standing at 10,023 feet. The event covers 36 miles and ascends nearly 10,000 feet, with some sections featuring a grueling average incline of 8%. It’s a race that tests not just physical strength but mental endurance, as riders battle the change in climate, the thinning air, and their own limits. The race ends near the summit, where participants are greeted with a vast, sweeping panoramic view of the island and the Pacific Ocean stretching out below. The race starts at Paia, a small town on the northern shore of Maui, and climbs through tropical rainforests, dry desert-like landscapes, and up to the high-altitude barren fields near the top of Haleakalā. The course offers steep climbs, harrowing switchbacks, and weather and conditions that can change dramatically as you ascend. Riders are treated to ever-evolving views, from lush green valleys and waterfalls to stark volcanic rock and surreal cloudscapes at the summit. I’m dreaming of returning to Maui to take on this challenge.
The island’s diverse terrain makes it an ideal destination for road cycling, whether you’re looking for coastal rides with ocean views or tackling the challenging climbs. The undulating hills of the upcountry offer a chance to explore Maui’s agricultural heart, with fields of lavender, sugarcane, and wildflowers lining the roads. For those who prefer a more laid-back experience, the island also offers cycling tours for beginners or families, many of which include visits to farms, nature reserves, and remote beaches. There’s something about cycling in Maui—the fresh ocean air, the dynamic landscapes, the sense of being immersed in nature—that makes it an unforgettable experience.
More Attractions and Activities
Maui is renowned for attractions and activities that cater to adventurers and relaxation-seekers alike. I know everyone always thinks they have to pack their vacation with activities, and that is easy to do here, especially if this is your first time. But you can also chill, meet locals, and discover stuff on the spot. I want to go back and explore more on my own, now that I have the lay of the land, do some fishing and some gravel biking.
The Road to Hana
Often considered a must-do, despite rather hazardous driving conditions for the uninitiated, this scenic road winds through rainforests, past cascading waterfalls, and along dramatic coastal cliffs. Each turn reveals stunning vistas and opportunities for adventure, whether it’s a quick hike to a hidden waterfall or a picnic on a black sand beach.
I took this road on an early morning trip up to the Garden of Eden and Rappel Maui, as I had always wanted to check tropical waterfall rappelling off my bucket list. The experience did not disappoint, and I stopped at the Jaws Country Store to pick up some hot sauce and chat with some locals on the way back to our hotel.
Haleakalā National Park
The park’s unique landscape, featuring otherworldly rock formations and endemic species, is a testament to the island’s volcanic origins, where you can witness the sun rise and set from above the clouds at the summit of the 10,000-foot dormant volcano. For those seeking a deeper understanding of Maui’s geology, guided tours reveal the stories behind its diverse ecosystems.
Surfing and Kiteboarding
Maui is a mecca for surfers, with spots like Ho’okipa Beach renowned for its consistent waves, but especially kite boarders, and a relentless wind on some beaches draws kiters from around the world. Surf schools are plentiful, catering to all skill levels. Kiteboarding in Kanaha Beach Park offers a thrilling blend of wind and waves.
Spearfishing
For the adventurous foodie, spearfishing is an authentic way to connect with the ocean. Local guides offer trips where you can learn the art of catching your own fish while snorkeling, experiencing the island’s marine life up close and personal while participating in sustainable practices.Ocean Adventures
Maui is obviously a paradise for ocean lovers, and snorkeling in Molokini Crater, a submerged volcanic caldera, reveals vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life. Whale watching during the winter months offers an unforgettable experience as humpback whales migrate to the warm Hawaiian waters to breed.
(photos courtesy of the author, the Hawaiian Tourism Authority, Visit Maui, and the Westin Maui)
—Definitely Wild is a column by EO Contributing Editor Aaron Bible. He has been writing for Elevation Outdoors and Blue Ridge Outdoors, among other outdoor publications, for more than two decades, covering cycling, skiing, gear, adventure travel and mountain life. The opinions expressed here are his own. Follow him on Instagram at @DefinitelyWild.
Read more from Definitely Wild:
Fly Fishing with Eleven Experiences
Coming Home with George Hincapie
