Looking for a getaway that has it all—climbing, riding, hiking, running, history, and camping—but lacks the crowds characteristic of Front Range sweet spots? head to Penitente Canyon.
Nestled in the volcanic foothills of the sweeping San Luis Valley, Penitente Canyon has a unique history. The place was once a spiritual haven for a group of Catholic monks, called Los Hermanos Penitente (The Penitent Brothers). Local legend has it that one of the brothers sat suspended in a car tire to paint the Virgin de Guadalupe, which you can still see (despite damage due to vandalism) on the sheer face called Virgin Wall. More recently, the Penitente Canyon Recreation Area, managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), has garnered attention for its distinctive rock formations, excellent mountain biking and stellar hiking. Even though it is perched at 8,000 feet, the canyon stays relatively warm all year long. Just keep an eye out for rattlesnakes, especially in summer. Here’s what you need to know to make the most of this wonderful and wild spot.
TRAIL
Over twenty miles of trail twist through this high-desert canyon, passing towering boulders, natural arches, ancient art and steep cliff faces. Beginning mountain bikers will love the fast and scenic Ute Loop (1.5 miles) and the recently constructed, flowy Los Hermanos (1.3 miles). Those with a bit of experience will enjoy the lung-busting Wildhorse Loop (2.1 miles) which boasts a big climb and an exciting descent full of technical challenges. Wildhorse also provides access to the fun, rocky Hidden Treasure area. Experts should hit up Sunshine Kitty (2.4 miles), a recently built, largely slickrock route that twists and climbs steeply from the bottom of Witches Canyon to descend via Rock Drops (one mile), a fast downhill characterized by—you guessed it—huge drops, rollers, and constant fun technical features.
If riding isn’t for you, hit any of these trails on foot for a solid run or hike. You can also head out on the Penitente Canyon Loop Trail (hikers only), which meanders up the main canyon and passes historic wagon tracks. Continue past the tracks, climb up the rock ramp, and wander along the canyon rim for miles. For more information and a map, contact the BLM, San Luis Valley Field Office. 719-852-7074; blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/slvfo.html
ROCK
In 1984, a pair of joggers ran through Penitente. Upon seeing its 100-foot sheer cliff walls, they immediately recognized the potential for a spectacular climbing hub. One of these men, climbing legend and guide-book-hero Bob D’Antonio continued exploring, building trails, and establishing routes in the area. Penitente and nearby Rock Garden, Witches’ Canyon and La Garita Wall now boast 300 sport climbing routes, a few trad lines and tons of bouldering options.
Though routes here are short, ranging from 25 to 75 feet long, many are challenging, with rankings of 5.10 and above. There are, however, also a solid number of easier routes as you get further into the main canyon. Regardless of the difficulty, most climbs in Penitente provide a great opportunity for pushing your limits thanks to well placed bolts and anchors, and high quality rock. The canyon itself is part of the much larger La Garita Caldera, a huge volcanic eruption that left Penitente full of solid, grippy rock with plenty of cracks, arêtes, crimps, edges and hueco-ridden walls.
First-timers will want to check out Mr. Breeze, a bolted, slabby 5.2. Beginners will have fun on The Serpent (5.7), Mr. Wind (5.6), and May-B-Nueve (5.8), but these can be busy on weekends so arrive early. Advanced climbers can test their mettle on famous routes including, Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way (5.11c), Tanks for the Hueco (5.10d), Shear Strength (5.11) and Copacetic (5.11b) and Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d), as well as Forbidden Fruit (5.12a) on the Whipping Wall. For detailed beta, grab a copy of the San Luis Valley Rock Climbing and Bouldering Guide by Bob D’Antonio (Chockstone Press).
SLEEP
On-site camping (drive-in and tent) is available all year unless it’s snowed in so grab a site, relax and enjoy the stellar star watching from this remote area ($11 for individual site, $20 for group site). Drinking water is available nearby. If you’d prefer the comfort of a bed, the historic and luxurious Windsor Hotel (windsorhoteldelnorte.com) in Del Norte offers cozy rooms at reasonable rates.
EAT AND DRINK
After a hard day of climbing or riding, head to Del Norte’s Three Barrel Brewery (threebarrelbrew.com) for refueling. Choose from an array of handcrafted pints and delicious homemade pizzas and calzones. For something more upscale, try the Windsor Hotel’s Dining Room for elegant, locally sourced lunches and dinners.
RACE
Consider coming back in fall to satiate your competitive side by taking part in the 12 Hours of Penitente Canyon, a mountain bike race on an advanced, 21-mile loop that runs through the area. To register, volunteer or become a sponsor for the event on October 8, 2016, go to the website 12hoursofpenitence.com.
—C.K.
