by Rob Coppolillo
Mountain guiding provides a wonderful career and it’s a ton of fun. Turns out it also addresses some interesting physiological challenges, ones which most EO readers face in their outdoor adventures. We can sum up those challenges in two simple words: fat and sodium.
Stock Up on Good Fat
Guiding requires long, steady days. Not just because our objectives are sometimes multi-pitch classics or long ski tours, but also because our guests enjoy a steady, manageable pace. We try to do as little start-stop, fast-slow as possible and keep things right at that “magic mountain” pace, as one of my mentors used to say. What that means for the training dorks amongst us is a ton of “Zone 2,” that is, an effort that’s about 60 to 70 percent of your max heart-rate, or a conversational pace, one at which you can get out a sentence or two without seeing stars.
Turns out working in Zone 2 for extended periods of time trains the body to mobilize fat as an energy source, sparing glycogen (energy from carbs and sugar) for higher-intensity efforts like a crux on a climb or a particularly steep skin track.
“If you get efficient at burning fat,” explains Dirk Friel, co-founder and co-owner of TrainingPeaks.com and an ex-pro road cyclist, “you don’t need to eat as much in the backcountry. It’s a long, sustaining fuel source. If you’re training your body to use sugar and carbs, you might bonk earlier … you might go through all your reserves.”
Our liver stores glycogen, several hours’ worth, max. That’s why we need to constantly supplement its stores with energy drinks, carbs and even gels while exercising. If you can postpone dipping into your glycogen stores, though, then overall you’ll have a much bigger fuel tank for long days. That equals better performance in the hills.
“Think about a Zone 2 effort—it’s a consistent pace, so if you sit in that zone and work your way up, adding time and being disciplined with it … that’s really going to tap into that fat oxidation,” explains Friel. “Start with 45 minutes, work your way up to 90, then a couple hours.”
Remember, Zone 2 is 60-70 percent of your max, so training with a heart-rate monitor will be helpful. Shop around and check out models for as little as $40, not to mention HRM’s that pair with your smartphone. Read up on determining your zones (check out TrainingPeaks.com for great info!) and get started.
Hydrate
Guiding demands carrying a few extra items: chocolate, a med kit, a repair kit, maybe some extra sunglasses, an InReach device, and a camera. The pack fills up and gets heavy quickly, so somewhere in there we usually skimp on stuff. Water makes an easy victim, as it’s two pounds per quart. Try lugging a few those up the First Flatiron on a hot day! You’re probably the same as me, looking for a cheat to save a few pounds on the back. Hyper-hydration is the answer.
“We conclude that pre-exercise hyper-hydration improves endurance capacity and peak power output and decreases heart rate and thirst sensation ….”
Those are some smart people writing in the Journal of Physiological Anthropology. Bottom line: topping off the fluid reserves before you head out the door yields immediate, substantial benefits for almost any kind of activity.
So how do we do it?
Drinking water alone doesn’t work. The kidneys can rapidly excrete excess water—we’re talking minutes—so simply chugging a liter of water won’t do much for you. Sodium is key, because it’s the sodium concentration in your bloodstream that your body responds to in regulating its thirst and maintaining hydration levels.
Think Beyond Water
Dr. Allen Lim earned his PhD in exercise physiology at CU-Boulder and has since built a career that’s done everything from train riders at the Tour de France to develop one of the most successful energy drinks on the market, Skratch Labs.
“If you’re thirsty, drink something; if you’re not, you’re probably going to be fine,” he says. It’s the kind of simple, common-sensical advice he often gives: simple.For long days ice- and rock-climbing or ski touring in the hills, though, it’s nearly impossible to carry enough energy drink. A quality hydration drink balances sodium citrate (easier on the stomach than sodium chloride), cane sugar, and real fruit. Sip on this throughout a “regular” day, but chances are it won’t fulfill your hydration needs on a big one. In fact, physiologists tell us if you lose two to three percent of your body weight in fluids during an event, your performance is going to suffer. I’ve weighed myself after monster days and I easily lose that much weight, if not more.
Enter Skratch’s “Hyper Hydration” product. It’s salty—so salty, as a matter of fact, that it’s about the same concentration as your bloodstream (3.5g/L), so your kidneys are more likely to pass the fluid into your bloodstream, rather than peeing it out. And voila, you just hyper-hydrated yourself! Try it the next time you’re on an extended mission; you might be surprised at how good you feel.
Those of you with blood pressure problems or adverse reactions to sodium should chat with your doc before bombing up. I used Skratch’s Hyper Hydration throughout my guides exams and any time I’m headed out for six or more hours. At last year’s Grand Traverse (the 40-mile ski race from Crested Butte to Aspen), I slammed a liter 15 minutes before the start and another 16 ounces halfway through. Awesome!
Experiment
As with any new technique or product, try out some fat-burning strategies and hyper-hydration before you tackle a big objective. The last thing you want on your “big day” is an upset stomach or heavy legs. Chances are, though, some dedicated training in Zone 2 and hyper-hydration will yield good results if you pair it with a quality training program. Good luck!
Rob Coppolillo is an internationally licensed mountain guide and co-owner of Vetta Mountain Guides (vettamountainguides.com).
