Pure Epic-ness: GusGus feeling it. Courtesy Iceland Airwaves
Every October, this little Nordic island, proud of its Viking heritage, geothermal power and unpredictable volcanoes, puts on the best damn music festival on the planet. Get there.
We hate to disappoint you Telluride, but the best music festival in the world is not in the San Juans. It’s on an island close to the Arctic Circle inhabited by a mere 300,000 people who still speak the same language as their Viking forebears and power their homes on the heat of volcanoes. Welcome to Iceland Airwaves—a gathering of musicians and parties every October that goes down in Reykjavik, a city that is part sleepy Arctic fishing town, part rave party central and part intellectual art installation.
Airwaves began in 1999 in a hanger at Reykjavik’s domestic airport and has since grown to take over the entire city. The impressive thing about the festival is that it has managed to still keep that local character, showcasing garage bands from Reykjavik (like the teenagers in Mammút) and Icelandic bands with global appeal like Sigur Rós alongside big indie names from the U.S. and Europe such as Beach House. The otherworldliness of Iceland coupled the obscure originality of so many Icelandic bands has made the festival a must-do event for East Coast hipsters and Seattle indie station KEXP even broadcasts live like from Reykavik during Airwaves.
Airwaves is not as well known in Denver, however, but, since Iceland Air just started a direct flight from Denver to Reykjavik, you had better book your ticket now. The 2013 festival runs from October 30–November 3 and the lineup so far includes legendary Kraut rockers Kraftwerk, as well as Icelandic stars Sin Fang and múm. icelandairwaves.is
Reykjavik and Beyond
Reykjavik is quite easy to manage, especially if you keep downtown close to the action. The best place to stay is the contemporary-yet-cozy Hotel Reykjavik Centrum, which sits right next to an archaeological dig of the first house in the city. For eats, it runs the gamut—from the famed hot dog stand Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (order a “Clinton,” just a lamb dog with mustard named for Bill himself who ate one here) to organic fish and chips at Icelandic Fish & Chips to vegetarian at Grænn Kostur. Everyone is a musician or an artist (usually both) in this town and the Reykjavik Art Museum is well worth a visit, if nothing else but to introduce you to the work of political satirist Erró. Head out of town on the Golden Circle tour, which takes in the stunning waterfall Gullfoss, Geysir (the geothermal waterspout that gave all the rest their name) and Thingvellir, where you can scuba dive in the crack between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Further down the south coast, Skogafoss and Thórsmörk park are must visits for epic hiking.
The Icelandic Music Primer
If your knowledge of Icelandic bands only goes as deep as Björk and the Sugarcubes, you are in for a big surprise. It’s shocking that a country the size of Boise could pump out such a constant string of varied and dynamic musicians, playing everything from traditional singer songwriter ballads, to post-rock anthems, to hardcore punk, to reggae and rap. Here’s a list of artists—who often play Airwaves—to start you off:
Sigur Rós
If you ever have the chance to see Sigur Rós live, do it. The band’s visual show includes everything from opening inside a giant white scrim that serves as a projection screen to a slow-pan video of a volcanic landscape moving at pace to the music behind them. Their new album Kveikur drops in June—and from the sounds of the songs they have played off it live, it’s as if the elves of Lothlórien covered Trent Reznor. Check out the first single, “Brennisteinn,” here: bit.ly/ZhjAnj
Ólöf Arnalds
Absolutely haunting is the only way to describe the voice of Ólöf Arnalds, who manages to capture the sublime longing of Viking maidens. Her sweet vocals make more traditional Icelandic music accessible and leave Highlands hipsters humming. Listen to her here: bit.ly/sDFflw
Ojba Rasta
Icelandic reggae may seem odd. All we can say is it works. Check out a video live at KEXP in Seattle here: bit.ly/ZpoC67
Of Monsters and Men
The latest big band to break out of Iceland combines Euro pop with Brooklyn sensibility. They don’t have the eerie depth of some Icelandic bands, but they’re fun. Check them out at Coachella here:
bit.ly/17XD6NI
Screaming Masterpiece
If you want a mix of all the diverse bands that come out of Iceland, this 2005 documentary that offers a glimpse into all the sounds of this little country where everyone is in a band. Björk and Sigur Rós are here as are Reykjavik rappers and punks but the best thing may be Mugison playing acoustic in a church. Watch the trailer: bit.ly/bdFgsm
