Sage Advice: Yes Virginia, there isstill some funk left in Colorado. Or so says the local known only as “Father Time.” Photo by Jeff Cricco
Ask a Local
By Chris Kassar, Cameron Martindell and Jayme Moye
Forget over-caffienated marketing departments and a bunch of editors who think they know everything. For our 2012-13 Colorado Resort Guide, we went straight to the people who truly know these places best—the locals. So take a tour of Colorado’s best areas alongside the people who ski and snowboard at them every damn day.
LOVELAND
Marc Vitelli
An “East coast kid” originally from Boston with 20 years of snowboarding under his feet, Marc Vitelli moved to Colorado 12 years ago “looking to shred the bluebird skies, dry powder and eight-month season of the Rocky Mountains.” He’s now settled in Evergreen as the Brand Manager of SIMS Snowboards and he averages “80 days a year on the shred.”
ELDORA MOUNTAIN RESORT
Isaac Stokes
A financial services professional in Boulder, Isaac Stokes, 42, is a self-confessed “born again tele skier going on two decades of freeheeling.” He claims he came to Colorado from Vermont for blue-bird powder days and ended up an Eldora tree basher.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? Eldora is true soul skiing. Plus, the mountain is one of the most family friendly—it’s easy to trade off with your spouse and the lower lifts are perfect for the little ones. And there’s no I-70 commute that has you paging Dr. Kevorkian.
Where’s Your Stash? The Ripples, The Burl and The Beyonder. You need to ask a local to find them.
Where Do You Party? The Breakroom (in the backcountry). VIP knee-dipping freak-flag fliers
only.
How Do You Stick It to the Man? There ain’t none… he’s over at Vail Corporate Headquarters in Broomfield.
BRECKENRIDGE
Dave Stillman
Dave Stillman, 54, moved to Breck in 1982 and has been skiing 100-plus days a year ever since. An expert telemark skier, he’s managed a minimum of 140 days per year for the last three years in a row. He is the Owner/Manager/Buyer at AMR ski shop.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? We have cornices, rocks and cliff sections to jump off, with fierce weather to keep the timid off the goods. Steep terrain with some long and short chutes. Big bumps and trees. It’s easy to do some quick loops into the bowl and back to 6 Chair for a relaxing ride back to the top or pound out the T Bar to Imperial over to the top of 7 and back to the T Bar for a good work-out. A sick park. Great stashes, great short hikes to the Lake Chutes, Peak 6 and out from Peak 10. And of course when you’re done, you can be at the highest point on the hill and be back at work or your favorite drinking hole (in my case both) for happy hour with a short high-speed cruise to downtown Breck in less than 15 minutes.
Where’s Your Stash? There is a little cubby hole in the repair shop where we keep the medicinal. Oh on the hill—ha ha. Don’t tell anyone, but get off the T-bar half way and head left and follow the T-bar down a great face which fills in with some really nice wind-loaded steep-slope soft snow and a really quick return to the T Bar. You avoid the ridge wind above tree line on a nasty day, with a quick stop at the church in the woods just above the Vista Haus (a great local meeting place to feed the birds and catch a hit).
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? Yell at the ski instructors who take their classes into our private stashes, laugh at patrol when they eat it in front of you and show them how to really ski and bring your own beer so you never buy food or beer at the prices the ski area charges.
TELLURIDE
Gus Kenworthy
Gus Kenworthy, 20, graduated from Telluride High and is a professional skier competing in slopestyle, superpipe and big air. He took the AFP (Association of Freeskiing Professionals) overall halfpipe title in 2011, and 2012 and made his Winter X debut in 2011.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? Palmyra Peak offers some of the best in-bounds big-mountain skiing in Colorado and boasts big cliffs, spines, and steep open faces. All over the mountain are beautiful forests of snow-capped pines making for unparalleled tree skiing. Groomers don’t really change much from mountain to mountain but what makes them so extraordinary in Telluride is the breathtaking panoramic mountain views.
Where’s Your Stash? It’s nothing to write home about but there’s a hard-to-find run called Mudslide that is basically a large clearing in the trees that accumulates a lot of snow each year. My friends and I would go there when we were younger to build jumps and try new tricks in the powder.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? Normally on a powder day, it’s a chaotic race to get to the top of the mountain. People line up hours before the chairs start turning, eagerly awaiting the excitement that ensues. As much as I love the top, some of the best powder days I’ve had in Telluride were spent lapping Chair 7 and skiing the face.
Where Do You Party? There is usually a DJ or live band playing at one of the bars in town, which makes it easy to plan your night out. Otherwise the New Sheridan would probably be my go-to bar.
Where Would You Take Someone New to the Mountain? Whether they’re a beginner skier or an expert, See Forever is the perfect run to take someone who’s new to Telluride. It’s a groomed run that is wide and rolling and spans almost the entire vertical of the mountain.
COPPER MOUNTAIN
Laurie Huggins
A real estate broker in Breck, Laurie Huggins grew up in Long Island and moved to Summit County in 1995. She spent her first year living at Copper. “I learned to snowboard there and a few years later learned to tele there,” she says. “My husband and I now live in Frisco—Copper’s town—and spend most of our ski days there. Copper is my happy place!”
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? For a big mountain, Copper has a great local vibe. There’s free parking and there’s easy access to pretty much anything you would want on the mountain.
Where’s Your Stash? But then it wouldn’t be a stash, would it?
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? The B Chair and Lower 17 Glades is the place to warm up. Or maybe Lower Enchanted… if it’s open.
Where Do You Eat? JJ’s or CB Grill when I’m feeling fancy. JJ’s is the place to party, too.
Where Would You Take Someone New to the Mountain? The Enchanted Forest. It’s the best of what Copper has to offer and gets you up above treeline and then down into the trees.
What’s the Best Special Event? Don’t miss outdoor movies in Burning Stones Plaza.
Where Do You Go to Scare Yourself? The Schaeffers and beyond or the B Trees.
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? I make every day the best day, powder or no!
VAIL
Caitlin Rapson
Caitlin Rapson, 27, grew up in Vail riding in a kid pack on her Dad’s back. She started skiing when she was 2, snowboarding when she was 12 and competing when she was 13. She works in the local family business at the Secret Garden florist and is attending Colorado Mountain College to get her RN.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? I have been skiing here my whole life and still love the runs on Vail. The sign jump, the rollers on the front side and the carved turns in the back. Oh, and let’s not forget the epic runs a few days after a storm in Blue Sky.
Where’s Your Stash? My stash is mine and that’s why it’s called a stash, but a hint to one of my personal favorites: three letters, and its out of bounds… shhh don’t tell ski patrol.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? I split the winter into seasons: Carving Season, Fast as You Can Go Season, Powder Season, Park Season and End of the Season. Park is self explanatory. Powder, I love going straight to M&M trees out in Game Creek, then straight to Chair 2 to Chair 2 trees, and so on. Fast Season, through Lionshead top to bottom through the shoots and out at the bottom, then repeat several times.
Where Do You Eat? I eat at Garfinkle’s, Moe’s BBQ (that just got me hungry) and, when I want the best sandwich, I go to the French Deli. For pizza, it’s hard to decide. I grew up pretty much in Pazzo’s, but I like to hangout with friends at Vendetta’s for après.
Where Do You Party? I “party” on every slash turn or air in the pipe. I like the local atmosphere at Vendettas and Taproom. When I want to go for a nicer place you can find me at Bol.
What’s the Best Special Event? The best event, well it was the Sessions. I love watching pond skim but have never actually entered that… hmmm light bulb for this year! But hear me clear, Jake Burton, I’m stoked for your event and if a local perspective is needed I’m here for ya.
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? Stickin’ it to the man? Well, duct tape I guess.
SKI COOPER
Paul Copper
Paul Copper’s grandfather used to maintain water ditches and relied on skis to get to the high country for his work. His dad, Bill, would join his father when he got old enough and set skiing in the family bloodline. By 1945 when the Army handed Cooper Hill over to the county, Bill had started a ski shop to provide rentals to the small ski area at the nearby Climax Mine. Paul, who started skiing Cooper when he was two in 1956, now runs his dad’s shop, Bill’s Ski & Snowboard Rentals in Leadville.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? Ski Cooper is a quiet ski area with some of the best snow in the country. Because we do not make any snow, the morning conditions are not icy, and the soft feel of natural snow under your skis is like nothing else.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? I like to start off the first runs of the day on Eagle, which is on the backside. It’s a nice moderate cruising run that’s perfect to get the legs warmed up. Then Piney and Burnout are the runs to take for a more challenging high-speed run through the natural rolls and bumps.
Where’s Your Stash? My stash is a run called Black Powder, and because it’s in the trees on the front side, the snow stays good and cold, there are very few people on it, and you can make it a real burner to get back to the bottom of the double chair.
ARAPAHOE BASIN
Nate Thomas
Nate Thomas has been dedicated to snowboarding for 17 years. He rides the Basin for the early season tail press to back one out in the park, mid-season mute grab drops into the pow and to kick it back on the beach with a springtime marg.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? First to open last to close, the Beach, free parking, some of the steepest terrain in Colorado. I enjoy that it isn’t crowded all the time and that people know you. I think A-Basin is just a different mountain.
Where’s Your Stash? Montezuma Bowl trees. The powder stays there for days after a storm.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? A full circle lap of my favorite terrain. First, I go up Pali chairlift, for a warm up lap down Slalom or Wild Cat. From there I head up the Lenawee chairlift, hike to the top of the East Wall and then down North Pole.
Where Do You Party? First I grab a Bacon Bloody Mary at the 6th Alley Bar and then I head to the Beach—there is always a party to be found.
Where Do You Go to Scare Yourself? You can catch some serious air in Montezuma Bowl. It gets pretty steep skiers right. Durrance is one of my favorites.
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? For some weird reason, I am always sick on powder days.
MONARCH MOUNTAIN
Annie Ruiter
Annie Ruiter moved to Salida in hopes of becoming one of those cool raft guides. That was 13 years ago, but it only took a few years of traveling the world and raft guiding for her to realize she was, “really bad at raft guiding!” She now works for the New Belgium Brewing Company.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? Monarch has such diverse terrain with natural snow, huge sunny bowls, finger chutes, wide open groomed runs, stunning views, a terrain park and an amazing family friendly atmosphere. It’s an exceptional experience whatever your ability. And just 25 minutes away from incredible Salida.
Where’s Your Stash? Mirkwood Bowl. But bring an extra pair of lungs. It is the ultimate adventure for advanced skiers and boarders, an opportunity to access some of the most pristine steeps available.
What’s the Best Special Event? New Year’s Eve Torchlight Parade & Firework Show. An on-snow parade down the mountain, lit only by torches. And there’s fireworks! Oh and Crockpot Sunday. It makes every Sunday a special event! Oh and the last day tailgate party… Sheesh.
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? Depends on the man. I just try to keep up with the pack of locals. Laps of anything off of Panorama on a powder day will stick it to the best of men. Followed by laps on Mirkwood of course.
ASPEN
Pat Sewell
An Aspen native, Pat Sewell is a self-proclaimed soul skier who simply lives to play in his backyard. “I consider myself to be one of the luckiest people in the world for the simple fact that I’m a second generation ski bum with a serious Peter Pan complex,” he says.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? Despite its hyped-up reputation as a posh playground for the ultra-rich, Aspen has one of the most hardcore ski communities around—and that said community shreds one especially awesome mountain. The Silver Queen Gondola takes you from the very streets of town and whisks you up over 3,000 vert to the top in under 15 minutes. From there, the whole mountain is your oyster—literally—you can get to any point on the hill from one single gondy ride, and then it’s all action all the way to the bottom, baby. With endless combinations of different aspects and ridge lines, paired with steeps, pillows and infamous Aspen tree glades your shred day will be filled with awesomeness.
Where’s Your Stash? My stash is a secret—that’ s why it’s a stash—but you should definitely check out Bingo Glades and the Trainor’s Ridge if it’s deep.
Where Do You Party? You’ll catch me apres at the one and only Sky Bar (don’t forget your trunks ‘cause the hot tub is open to the public) and tying one on late night at the Red Onion.
Where Do You Go to Scare Yourself? The Caribou Club where I see all the women with way too much botox and plastic surgery. Seriously terrifying stuff.
PURGATORY
Mark Rosenthal
Mark Rosenthal has been skiing for 34 years. He fell for the sport when he was heavily involved in pool/park skating, but since his family didn’t ski, he couldn’t head to the mountains until he got his license. Six-and-a-half years ago, Rosenthal moved from SoCal to Durango with his wife.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? The quality of the snow and the lack of crowds! When the weather is great (puking snow), all of the Texans head for the lodge, leaving more untracked for the locals.
Where’s Your Stash? Bottom Chute when it’s deep and I’m first. Under Chair 5 when it’s not running.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? Not much time: laps on Lower Hades, ducking in and out of the trees. A leisure day: head over to 8 to slay powder on Paul’s, Beaudreau’s, McCormack’s, then to 5 under the chair, which may involve a short hike.
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? By harvesting powder days after a storm in the backcountry. Or stashing beer in the woods in the morning for later retrieval and consumption.
CRESTED BUTTE
Shaun Matusewicz
Shaun Matusewicz started skiing 22 years ago and has only missed a couple seasons on his boards while adventuring in South America. He’s been skiing at Crested Butte for eight seasons and holds the esteemed title of youngest member of the current Crested Butte Town Council.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? If Crested Butte had an official unofficial-motto it would be, “we have the most fun.” It is part of the reason I love living here—everyone you meet is stoked to be in CB and it shows. They are out there having as much fun as they can and loving life. Add to that virtually no lift lines and amazing varied terrain and you’ve got yourself a great time.
Where’s Your Stash? Well, I can’t spill that, but I will say there is plenty of snow. Three days after a dump, you can still find fresh lines. Just dip off the side of most intermediate runs and you’ll find pow.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? Most days my first run is skinning up the mountain before the lifts open. I love that CB lets people do this. You sign up for a free uphill pass and all season long you can catch amazing sunrises as you head up the hill, plus you get guaranteed first tracks! After skinning I usually grab a coffee at the base and then head to work.
Where Do You Eat? I like to eat in town. Grab a slice of the best pizza you’ve ever had at the Secret Stash (check out the Po’ Boy Special) and then head over to Third Bowl Ice Cream for dessert. These guys just opened this year and they’re one of my favorite new businesses.
What’s the Best Special Event? Hands down the Al Johnson Uphill/Downhill Telemark Race. Imagine hundreds of colorful locals (and tourists) dressed in crazy costumes partying their way uphill for 600 vertical feet and then skiing (and falling) their way to the bottom. Spectators love this one too—there is a viewing area at the bottom to watch all the carnage as people come down.
How Do You Stick It to “The Man”? I like to have a PBR on the last run. There’s a great log bench at an overlook where you can watch the sunset. Every time it reminds me just how good we have it here.
WOLF CREEK
Mike Mundy
Mike Mundy of Pagosa Springs, started skiing at 11 years old and fell in love with it. “I am now 22 and still bein’ a ski bum. \m/ (Rock on)” He works for Verizon and racks up at least 100 days a year.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? We get the best pow in Colorado. It’s quiet and lift lines are short.
Where’s Your Stash? One of my favorite stashes is Glades below Horseshoe. The hike out there is amazing. The first couple turns in the horseshoe are amazing, deep pow every turn, then you get into the trees and it’s even better.
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? The first place I go is to the Raven lift. I do a couple quick warm up runs before goin’ to Shralpin.
Where Do You Eat? I always eat at the Prospector building, Best green chili Frito pie known to man.
Where Do You Party? Best party spot has got to be The Buffalo Inn or The Coyote Moon. Both have pool tables, bomb food and even better drinks.
Where Do You Go to Scare Yourself? The knife ridge—it’s wicked steep with a huge cornice.
POWDERHORN
Kristin Lummis
A Colorado Western Slope native, Kristin Lummis authors The Brave Ski Mom Blog (braveskimom.com). “I am not so brave, but I try every day to meet life’s challenges with a smile on my face,” she says. She skis 40 days a year at Powderhorn.
Why Does Your Mountain Rock? Skiing here rocks because of the awesome snow, extensive glades and the nonexistent lift lines!
Where Do You Head for First Run of the Day? Depends upon the snow, but usually I dash over to the West End and try to hit Mad Dog Glades if the pow is fresh, or maybe Snowcloud.
Where Would You Take Someone New to the Mountain? I guess it depends upon what they like to ski and ride, but a really nice intermediate to advanced bump run called Bear Claw is fun. The best views are from the top of Wonder Bump.
How Do You Stick It to the Man? By skiing at Powderhorn. I cannot imagine a less corporate environment. It’s a mountain run by, and for, skiers and riders. •
On-Snow Apps
Knowing when to call in sick for a powder day takes either years of studying meteorology, a text message or email subscription to your favorite resort, or, naturally, there’s an app for that. Search your app source for ski or snow report and you’ll get a bevy of options. One of my favorites, updated for 2012, is simply titled “Ski & Snowboard Report” by On The Snow. Set up alerts for any of your favorite mountains, access maps, web cams and post your own report. There’s also a good chance your favorite resort has its own app.
—Cameron Martindell
Pa$$ Power
What passes give you the most bang for your buck?
Monarch Far more than a pass to one little mountain, the $359 Monarch Pass is like a winter road trip passport with access to 32 areas across the globe including Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, California, Michigan, Arizona, North Carolina, British Columbia, Germany, Austria and Spain.
LOVELAND Loveland is definitely spreading the love this year. For $379 (with discounts for for military), you get three free days at Monarch Mountain, three free days at Durango and one free day of unguided skiing at Silverton.
Epic Pass This baby grants you unlimited access to Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone, Heavenly, Northstar, Kirkwood, and Arapahoe Basin—with no Blackout Dates. Plus it gives you six Ski-With-A-Friend (SWAF) varying discount tickets. All that will cost you a fairly reasonable $679 (adult) or $349 for a child.
Gems Card For just $10, the Gems Card garners you discounts at all nine Colorado “Gems” ski areas—Arapahoe Basin, Echo Mountain, Eldora, Loveland, Monarch Mountain, Powderhorn, Ski Cooper, SolVista and Sunlight. Look out for blackout dates, though.
Eldora Family Pass Two adults and two kids for $1,019 for the season. That’s a great deal for the mountain that is our choice for the best place to switch off skiing with kids.
Classic Pass The four-day Classic Pass is $209, good for four days at Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass or Buttermilk. It’s a good buy if you plan on two winter weekends.
Shop Local
Don’t want to pay full price? Head to the Colorado Ski and Snowboard Expo.
You won’t find a whole lot of “locals” who pay full price for gear, and the best place to channel your inner dirtbag is this massive wholesale event and party (a beer festival is part of the event). The good news about last year’s crummy snowpack is that there will be a ton of inventory to move (a.k.a. screaming deals) at the mega sale held Friday-Sunday, November 2-4 at the Colorado Convention Center in Denver. And this year, there will be new non-winter deals, too, including footwear and camping gear. Plus, the show is a babysitter, with an Eliteam Fitness obstacle course, a Gibbon Slackline exhibit, the Winter Park’s Kids Slope, a Keystone Kidtopia bouncy castle and an Aerial Trampoline show. Admission is $12 (cash only), Children 12 and under are FREE. Included with the ticket is a one year subscription to Ski or Transworld Snowboarding Magazines and a $10 Liftopia Gift Card. An additional ticket is required to attend the Rocky Mountain Brew Fest–$12 in advance, or $15 at the door. bewisports.com/expos/denver/
